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Kilifi and Watamu, For Nights Spent Alone with the Gods

There are days when you wake up and feel like you are drowning under the weight of all the lives you are not living. When the thickness of another morning in the fast city- begins to become too much for you to stir past it, too thick for you to shift it to make room for the day. On such days, you can only hope to getaway. To breath, to enjoy space and to taste the salt in the water that fills your mouth at a beautiful sea.



Watamu Beach, Kenya


Kilifi, Bofa Beach


There are three ways to get to this place, Kilifi city. You can take a bus to Mombasa and connect with another into Kilifi County and city. You can fly into Malindi Airport and take a tuk-tuk or taxi into Kilifi County. Or you could choose to swim across the creek from Mnarani into Kilifi city (full disclosure that this is the only route I have not tried). Whichever way you choose to get here, I can guarantee that the end result will be worth your while!

I took a 3-day weekend off to enjoy this gorgeous destination with its beautiful water playground creek.



Papa Remo Beach, Watamu


The weekend was spent lazing about the pool at Distant Relatives where I stayed, eating delicious vegetarian and vegan food and drinking large cocktails in glasses chilled with ice. Definitely eat their home-made chilli! This eco lodge is designed in a way that has all its showers in the outdoors, no plastic bottled water (only recycled bottles) and toilets that are cleaned with compost not flushing. I loved it!



Distant Relatives, Kilifi



Distant Relatives Outdoor Shower


Vegetarian Breakfast at Distant Relatives


Distant Relatives has quite a few delicious vegan 🌱 options on its menu


I also walked over to the beach 5 minutes away and had a day where I went off on a rented boat for a sunset cruise of Kilifi Creek (which comes with a fresh on boat caught fish if you want for dinner). Two days of pure bliss!



My absolutely charming boat captain wearing my sunglasses


Kilifi Creek Sunset Cruise

Me and my captain and my camera in a scene


On the third day I headed off to Watamu to Papa Remo (my favorite beach and beach restaurant in Kenya). If blue waves should dance then they should dance on grains of sand that resemble finely, crushed star-dust.



Papa Remo Watamu


Papa Remo


Papa Remo

Papa Remo Restaurant Food

Watamu, Kenya


And if every day is to be fresh, awake, then the destination that you are looking to go to is definitely Watamu. Undeniably the home of Kenya’s most beautiful beach, a clear, rich, turquoise and jade crystal gem in the crown.






And although beauty is an enormous, unmerited gift given randomly, stupidly. —Khaled Hosseini, Watamu’s beauty feels like God’s day on her creation was filled with loving warmth and soft rays of sunshine. For its numerous islands hold a grace and distinction that provokes quiet, appreciative sighs of awe.








The beachfront that Papa Remo sits in is quintessential Watamu, clear pools of water in hard coral pools, abandoned Swahili boats adding a charming and aesthetic ambiance. Turtle shell shaped islands dot its horizon and small children, skin glistening from the sea run around in unadulterated joy.









If you spend nights alone with the Gods in these beautiful Kenyan coastal islands, make sure that you:


  1. Go back in time in Mnarani and Gede Ruins

  2. Explore the thick rainforest that is Arabuko Sokoke

  3. Eat, drink and sleep at Distant Relatives

  4. Take a sunset dhow down Kilifi Creek

  5. Eat, drink and enjoy a day at Papa Remo

  6. Have lunch at Crab Shack and enjoy Mida Creek in Watamu

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